Example: the hilariously cross-cultural huevos rancheros kolache purveyed by the various Kolache Factory locations. Stuffed with scrambled eggs, cheese and picante sauce, this tennis-ball-sized invention has a high specific gravity but a highly agreeable taste. And what could be more indomitably Texan than this spunky driving-around-in-the-morning item?
You've got to nab the huevos rancheros kolache early, however, before the shelves are picked clean. Do not accept the sausage-and-cheese version as a substitute, either; it will remind you of Jimmy Dean, and not in a warm, fuzzy way.
-- Alison Cook
Kolache Factory, 9711 Westheimer, 952-2253; Two Shell Plaza, 222-2253; 5808 Kirby, 664-2253; 2608 S. Shepherd, 523-5567.