Beware the food critics who employ words like “sublime” and “divine” to describe the humble but imperative enchilada. While it may taste heavenly, a great enchilada should remind any epicure of its earthiness. The simple but enduring goodness of masa worked and rolled lovingly by skilled hands, for starters. The cheese or veggies or proteins encased within should send eaters on a daydream to an artisanal dairy or small family farm with happy animals or a seafood-gathering skiff, the kind that would make Hemingway proud.
These are the vignettes which flicker to life in our endorphin-buzzed brains by the enchilada selection at Teotihuacan Mexican Café. Pretty much anything they can put on a plate or in a bowl here is tasty, but the enchiladas are exceptional. One Yelper boldly announced she would “fight you for a plate” of them without regard to whether “you” are an MMA pro or even bothering to specify which enchiladas are brawl-worthy (there are cheese, spinach, fajita, ground beef, carnitas and shrimp varieties). We believe the best of them all are the enchiladas de mole.
The sauce is nutty, spicy and rich as an elf king’s blood and it’s ladled liberally over a pair of warm, soft tortillas stuffed with a mix of lumped and shredded chicken. The chicken is seasoned so nicely we’ll try to extract it from within with the steady hand of a winner at that Operation board game, just to savor it alone. The electrifying buzz really comes from a full bite though — tortilla, queso fresco, chicken and that decadent mole, the bane of every Chopped contestant given chocolate, peanuts and 30 minutes (“Clock starts now!”). One taste and it’s clear the chefs at Teotihuacan take their time developing their mole the down-to-earth way it’s been done for hundreds of years.