Between Friends

The sign on the door to Bunky's Soul Food Café (7265 Scott, 713-747-3663) reads "Feed people good food at a fair price, make a friend along the way." Samuel Nelson told this to his granddaughter, Jessica Limbrick (aka Bunky), who is now studying at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in New York. It is doubtful that pig's feet will ever make it to the Institute. And when Jessica returns to Houston, one can only hope that she doesn't try to raise the price, dress them up with any highfalutin' sauce and make them something they're not. What they are is a wonderful example of soul food at its best. Nowhere in Houston are they any better than at Bunky's, on Thursdays only. They serve them with no special treatment. For $5.75, you get an overflowing platter of pig's feet along with three traditional sides. Always pick rice or mashed potatoes since they absorb the thick gravy which covers the entire plate. Collard greens, turnip bottoms or turnip greens ensure a healthy dose of minerals, and yams add a touch of sweetness. There is no delicate way to eat the pig's feet. Simply pick up whatever you can, put it in your mouth, work around the bones, sit back and enjoy -- and maybe make a friend along the way.
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Paul Galvani