Burger Break: Pete's

If you're ever headed to Kingwood or to Bush airport, it might be worth a round-about drive to Pete's Burger Place for one solid, two-handed, very balanced hamburger.

At 24626 Loop 494 in Porter, just north of Kingwood and 11 miles northeast of Bush airport up U.S. 59, the place doesn't look like much. It's just a white shack by the road across from some train tracks with a few tables outside.

Inside, Pete's has clearly had some renovations and it's a spic-and-span place, but it was sunny so we sat outside.

The burger was of medium height and above-average width, a two-hander for sure. Strikingly, all toppings precisely matched the size of the bun and didn't shift around -- each bite had everything in it.

The three-level crunch of lettuce, pickles and onions, all very crisp, with a hint of mustard, was excellent. And of course there was the meat itself.

The patty was bigger than average but not unwieldy, very tender but remarkable for its lack of grease. There were only three of four drops of juice in the tray when we were done, and we're pretty sure those were from the pickles.

The beef was very flavorful and so tender we swore they fine-ground their own (the clerk said no).

Regardless, it was an excellent burger, and at $6.99 with some decent fries and a drink, that's better than most fast food places and way the hell tastier.

The eatery also has all the other staples, from hot dogs to chicken melts, and a sampling of appetizers.

Pete's is open 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. most days (9 p.m. Friday), and closed Sundays.

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