Poscol, Marco Wiles's fabulous new Italian joint on Westheimer, is the subject ofthis week's Cafe review
. While I raved about the food I ate there, I also whined about the cured meats. Wiles calls the place anenoteca
(wine bar) andsalumeria
(cured meat shop
). But if you have ever been to a salumeria in, say, Bologna, for instance, you might find Poscol a little light on the cured meats. When I think of a salumeria, I think of an Italian deli that is full to bursting with prosciutto,porchetta
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, salami, pepperoni,finocchiona
and a few miles of garlicky sausage.
The interior of Poscol is full of tables. So why pretend it's a salami store? Are we burned out on trattorias, osterias and ristorantes?