Cafe: What's a Salumeria?

Poscol, Marco Wiles's fabulous new Italian joint on Westheimer, is the subject of

this week's Cafe review

. While I raved about the food I ate there, I also whined about the cured meats. Wiles calls the place an


(wine bar) and



cured meat shop

). But if you have ever been to a salumeria in, say, Bologna, for instance, you might find Poscol a little light on the cured meats. When I think of a salumeria, I think of an Italian deli that is full to bursting with prosciutto,



pancetta coppa





, salami, pepperoni,


and a few miles of garlicky sausage.

The interior of Poscol is full of tables. So why pretend it's a salami store? Are we burned out on trattorias, osterias and ristorantes?

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