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Cajun Choice

Many diners hate decisions. Sometimes we sit there and numbly stare at menus that have too much to offer, as paralyzed as a deer in the path of an oncoming 18-wheeler. Thank heavens for the combo étouffée platter ($10.95) at Boudreaux's Cajun Kitchen [5475 West Loop South, (713)838-2200]. Like a Louisiana version of the ying and yang symbol, half of the plate is covered with crawfish on a bed of dirty rice, the other half with shrimp on a bed of white rice. Both sides are smothered with a thick, rich, hearty and spicy sauce sure to leave your taste buds tingling. Now all you have to do is decide what to drink with it.

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