Chef Chat

Chef Chat, Part 3: Glen Trumble of Heights West

In this week's chef chat, we caught up with Glen Trumble of Heights West (see our conversations here and here). We spoke about some of the restaurant's offerings, and now it was time for me to try a few.

I started with an oyster appetizer that recently popped up on the menu (I'm hoping it finds its way back). The oysters were poached in champagne, and served with sautéed spinach and sliced grapefruit, along with some Béarnaise sauce. I'd never eaten oysters with grapefruit, but have to say, it absolutely worked. The dish was elegant and, more importantly, delicious. This appetizer was the perfect way to start any meal. It was light, refreshing and creative.

Next, I tried the beef on weck sandwich--a complete 180 degrees from the oysters. Substantial, hearty and packed with flavor, the sandwich featured pieces of Shiner-braised pot roast topped with soft onions and romaine lettuce, served on a fresh bun. As you would expect, the meat was juicy and tender. The sandwich was not for the faint of heart and is a perfect example of how versatile the menu is at Heights West.

I stopped there, but can tell you from previous dining experiences that you will not find better roasted duck in all of Houston. The melt-in-your-mouth breast meat with its perfectly cooked skin rests in a pool of saucy sweetness that's not to be believed. It's a steal at $17.95 a plate. Chef Glen Trumble is bringing interesting and tasty food to that little old auto repair shop off Ella, from such dishes as the rabbit and tuna at night, to the fish and chips on Friday afternoons.

Chef Trumble also claims to make a pretty mean fried chicken. I think that's on Saturdays.

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Kevin Shalin
Contact: Kevin Shalin