Cherry Top Bakery's All-Day Burrito

In August of 2004, I asked a truck driver in the parking lot of Laredo Taqueria on Patton if he agreed that the spectacular breakfast tacos we just ate were the best in the city. "Second best," he said, "the best is Cherry Bakery." I had never heard of Cherry Bakery, and I begged the guy for the location of this El Dorado of the breakfast taco.

The truck driver said "East of I-45 near Hobby." I have been trying to find the place ever since.

After a five-year search, I finally stumbled upon the Cherry Top Bakery and Taqueria last month. But I fear I was too late. The business appears to be in decline. The signs in the window advertise tortas, pan Mexicano, flautas, gorditas and other such goodies. But the former bakery doesn't sell any of that stuff anymore. Granted, the tacos are made on freshly-made flour tortillas and the barbacoa is stellar. But Laredo Taqueria on Patton is a much better breakfast joint.

Cherry Top is located at 915 E. College Ave, just east of Magic Burger in South Houston. The bakery sells empanadas, kolaches and cookies and Tres Leches cake. But aside from tacos, the only other item you can order from the steam table is an $8 burrito. It seemed a little steep, but I ordered one anyway. And I was stunned by what happened next. The lady behind the counter rolled out a tortilla the size of an extra large pizza and threw it in the air to stretch it. Then she cooked it on a griddle.

The monstrous burrito was stuffed with a mountain of refried beans, rice and the meat of choice (I got carne guisada) with no lettuce, tomato, or other fillers. The final product weighed 3 lbs. 2 oz. I fed an entire family with this burrito. And I still have half of it left over in the refrigerator.

I wish I experienced Cherry Top at its prime. I imagine it was awesome.

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