Classic Cubano

The pollo a la plancha en ajo ($11) at Boca Chica (2100 Waugh Drive, 713-523-2662) is an assertive dish full of the flavors of Cuba and Mexico. The boneless, skinless breast of chicken, marinated in lime juice and olive oil, is first butterflied and then cooked on the griddle. It's served on a bed of onions that have been steeping in the same marinade, rendering them slightly acidic yet sweet. Two large slices of maduros (cooked, ripe plantains), plantain chips, lots of finely diced garlic and, finally, black beans and rice all pay homage to the dish's Cuban ancestry.

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Paul Galvani