4

Competitive Wine Prices at Coltivare Pair Well

^
Keep Houston Press Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Houston and help keep the future of Houston Press free.

Back in 2009, when the Houston wine scene was just beginning to take off, then-sommelier Antonio Gianola asked a visiting wine writer to cast his gaze across the dining room of the now defunct Catalan.

"Look," he said with evident pride, "there's a bottle of wine on every table."

It was a seminal moment in Houston's evolution as a wine-hip city: Antonio's aggressive pricing, then a novelty, became the model for many of the restaurateurs and wine directors that would open new venues in the years that followed.

The wine list at the Italianate eatery Coltivare on White Oak Drive in the Heights seems to have borrowed a page from Antonio's much-missed wine list.

Yesterday evening, a table for six discovered that the restaurant's wine pricing is highly competitive. A bottle of D'Orta-De Conciliis 2011 Falanghina (above) sells for just $38, a price that reflects a "retail + corkage" formula ("corkage" is a modest fee charged by BYOB establishments).

The D'Orta-De Conciliis, a radically organic wine from Campania (Southern Italy), was just one of a wonderful spattering of well-priced selections on this organic-, biodynamic-leaning list.

For lovers of natural wine, the Occhipinti 2013 Tamì Frappato weighs in at just $40 while the Chateau Montelena Chardonnay -- one of the most famous expressions of Napa Valley -- was just $68 (the average retail price for this celebrated Californian wine in Texas is $44 according to a search on WineSearcher.com).

Domaine du Closel Savennières for $40 and Venica Collio Friuliano, also $40, were a few other standouts. And the by-the-glass pricing was also wallet-friendly.

Although there are also a few of the usual suspects on this evenly priced list, the majority of selections will have appeal to wine connoisseurs in search of "real wines" that "speak of place" as the au courant jargon goes.

The only disappointment, pined one guest, was that the prosciutto was sliced so clumsily. When an order arrived, it was too thick and not properly trimmed.

For a restaurant that prides itself in its salumi, this is a grave oversight.

If only the owners corrected this, Coltivare would be a slice of heaven paired with a fantastic glass of groovy Falanghina.

Keep the Houston Press Free... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Houston with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

 

Join the Press community and help support independent local journalism in Houston.

 

Join the Press community and help support independent local journalism in Houston.