Count on Fred

Count on Fred: What do two meatballs, plus two hard-boiled eggs, plus marinara sauce, plus angel-hair pasta equal? Capellini alla palermo ($7.95), one of the house specialties at Fred's Italian Corner (2278 West Holcombe, 713-665-7506). The angel-hair pasta is buried under a load of thick, slightly sweet, ruby-red marinara sauce. The meatballs impart a noticeable heat that permeates the rest of the dish, and the hard-boiled eggs add an interesting texture to the sauce. It all adds up to a simple, more-than-satisfying dish.

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Paul Galvani