Curdish Delight

Highly spiced Indian food calls for a swift antidote. That's why lassi was invented (although it's delightfully refreshing no matter what you're eating). The yogurt drink comes in two versions: salty and sweet. My favorite is the sweet mango lassi ($1) at Raja Indian Restaurant (5667 Hillcroft, 713-782-5667). Made from yogurt, mango pulp and sugar, its simplicity belies its complex taste. It looks like a banana milk shake, but with a thicker consistency and orange tinge. The natural sweetness of the mango does a good job of balancing out the acidity and tartness of the yogurt.

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