I learned to love sweetbreads through French cooking. The French call them ris de veau and in many recipes, the offal is blanched and cleaned and then pressed with weights until it develops a wonderful meaty texture. The pressed ris de veau is then sautéed with such luxurious ingredients as wild mushrooms, black truffles or wine.

But once you learn to love sweetbreads, you can also appreciate the much simpler Mexican approach. I had a few deep-fried mollejas (as they are known in Spanish) at Gerardo's for lunch today. They were hot out of the fryer and spectacular dipped in salsa verde. I also love the mollejas tacos at the Taqueria Tacambaro truck behind Canino's. Try them with Maria's dried chile salsa.

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Anybody else have a favorite place to eat mollejas? (Or ris de veau?)

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