Tacos dorados are tortillas that have been stuffed and secured with toothpicks, then deep-fried. I tried some at De Buey Y Vaca taqueria at the Airline flea markets while working on this week's review. The sweet potato version was bland, and the refried bean-filled taco was pretty good. The best by far was the one filled with sesos, or brains.

Brains are pretty neutral-tasting, really. That's why brains and eggs became such a popular Southern dish. Armour sells brains in milk gravy in a can. (Or at least they used to.) The brains in the tacos at De Buey Y Vaca were chopped up and seasoned -- if no one told you what you were eating, you'd think it was tofu.

I think "tastes like tofu" is going to become my new mantra.

• Pot Luck