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Keep Houston Press Free
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Fan Mail for a Flounder

Flounder season has just started, and I have had it twice already. It's a wonderfully flavorful fish that's almost always cooked whole because it is nearly impossible to get all the meat off the bones in a filet. I had some simple fried flounder last weekend at Captain Benny's served with a pile of dirty rice and some garlic bread. It was pretty tasty, though maybe a little overcooked. The oysters at the Captain's boat-shaped restaurant were a better bet.

The "flounder fish and chips" special at Kata Robata Sushi & Grill on Kirby, on the other hand, was one of the coolest presentations of flounder I have ever seen. First the flounder was filleted, and then the meat was cut into fingers and deep-fried with a panko crust. The body and head, which still had lots of meat attached, were fried into a basket shape. The pieces of fish and some French fries were then loaded into the fish bone basket. "You can eat the whole basket," the sushi chef pointed out. It was a stunning presentation and great way to eat flounder.

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