| Menus |

Feast-ing at Grand Prize

Keep Houston Press Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Houston and help keep the future of Houston Press free.

My friend and I grabbed containers of food one after another over the line from the kitchen at Grand Prize Bar last night. Two filled with duck gizzard soup, two filled with a cassoulet-like mess of duck and beans, two more filled with fish pie and brussels sprouts.

On top of those went plates heavy with feta cheese and bread, sticky toffee pudding and clotted cream. We hurried them outside to a picnic table, where four more friends waited. Containers were popped open and plastic utensils passed quickly around the table before the feeding frenzy began.

Just another Wednesday night in Montrose.

Grand Prize is now serving food from Feast each night starting at 8 p.m., in a serve-yourself, cash-only sort of arrangement with transactions not too far removed from what I imagine black market organ sales to be like. Gizzards here, skin there, perhaps a heart or two.

It's the kind of set-up that only a marriage between Feast -- the one true nose-to-tail restaurant in Houston -- and the bawdy Grand Prize Bar could have produced. And although it's only about a week old, the food seems to be moving pretty swiftly.

It's a worthy successor to the bar's previous biweekly Ghetto Dinners, which have ceased production now that co-founder Adam Dorris has started working under chef Justin Bayse at Stella Sola on a full-time basis. The food is every bit as high-end and the prices are every bit not, with each item on the nightly menu costing either $5 or $10.

As we opened the containers of cassoulet, filled up with white beans and dark duck meat, my friend asked how much it had cost. "Just ten bucks," I replied.

"That's it? Jesus. The same dish at Feast itself would cost $24.95 at dinner!" came her astonished reply. Of course, a little of the Feast ambiance is missing here -- and you're eating out of to-go containers with plastic forks -- but that's what makes it so great.

Sitting outside on picnic tables in a cool breeze last night, it was the best of both worlds for my dining companions: the food we all love from Feast in a highly casual environment where the bartenders were shaking up Pimm's Cups and gin rickeys. One has to wonder, however, about the continued success of the pairing night after night. Part of the appeal of Ghetto Dinner, after all, was its limited availability on alternating Monday nights.

Will the hipsters and Montrose kids that make up a large part of Grand Prize's clientele continue to purchase Feast's food every night? Will food lovers forfeit the pleasant environs of Feast's beautiful old house to eat in what can be perceived as a cliquey, tightly-knit bar of regulars? The two worlds don't seem likely to collide in any other setting.

But for now, the dinners (and occasional lunches -- follow Feast's Twitter account to keep fully abreast of the menu each day) continue. This past Sunday, it was wild mushroom soup and spiced lamb with couscous. Yesterday's lunch was pork cheeks and chicken pie, all of it delivered hot and fresh from the restaurant and ready to go.

Think of it as a non-mobile "food truck" with specials that change every day. Think of it as a collaboration between two Houston iconoclasts. Whatever you think of it, give it a try -- especially if you've never tried Feast's food before. With prices that nearly anyone can afford, I can't think of a better introduction to it than this.

Follow Eating Our Words on Facebook and on Twitter @EatingOurWords

Keep the Houston Press Free... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Houston with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.


Join the Press community and help support independent local journalism in Houston.


Join the Press community and help support independent local journalism in Houston.