Fins Seafood Sushi & Grill

Kam Ip, the owner and chef of Fins Seafood Sushi & Grill (2810 Westheimer, 713-750-9483), is a very hospitable person. He greets every customer like a long lost friend, and is genuinely interested in how each and every one enjoys his food. "I like to talk a lot," said Kam. "I am originally from Hong Kong and have been here since 1970. Even though I have a degree in accounting, I ended up in the restaurant business, I guess because I like to talk."

Kam owned King Bo on Bissonnet for many years before he sold it in order to retire. "But retirement was boring," Kam said, "so I decided to open this place." Fins sits in the building that formerly housed Rickshaw. The well-appointed, white-tablecloth place is serving a blend of Asian cuisine along with some Asian fusion dishes and sushi. "I like to fish, so I know how to handle fresh fish as well as prepare it," Kam said. Indeed he does.

The three seafood dishes Dish sampled were all outstanding and beautifully presented. An appetizer of salt & pepper shrimp packed a lot of flavors into a simply prepared dish. The ahi tuna salad was accompanied by a ginger soy dressing and was both light and filling. And the star dish of the evening, seafood noodles, contained stir-fried shrimp, scallops and tilapia filets on a bed of Asian noodles. "We've been waiting for our liquor license since the middle of September, when we started the renovation," Kam said. "In the meantime, we're BYOB."

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Paul Galvani