Fish Sandwich Fridays: Barnaby's

In honor of Lent and in an attempt to revive my own (lapsed) Catholicism, I will be reviewing a fish sandwich (loosely defined) each Friday from a local Houston restaurant. Sorry, Mickey D's fans: no Filet-o-Fish. Feel free to send in your suggestions even if you're not a Fish Eater with a capital F.

The Grilled Tuna Burger at Barnaby's

Once again I acted on commenter suggestion, this time that of "Ahoy," who advised me to "try the new tuna burger at Barnaby's some time!" Well, all right, then!

Compared to Lucky Burger's Fish Burger, Barnaby's Tuna Burger more closely resembles a burger in form and structure, though the taste, of course, is far from bovine.

Even though the Tuna Burger comes with a spicy remoulade, I opted to add avocado and Swiss cheese as well. I know some consider dressing a fish sandwich with anything save a mayonnaise-based sauce to be sacrilege, but I had vague notion that doing so might make it into a sort of higher-end tuna melt.

Not so much. The Tuna Burger, which I ordered cooked rare (a risky request for me), was barely pink, flavorless and dry. In desperation, I doused it with remoulade and ketchup, but there was no escaping the massive chunks of bland tuna.

Because heretofore I've very much enjoyed the food at Barnaby's, I'm willing to chalk this up to a fluke. The cooks, I think, may be afraid to serve up the Tuna Burger after just a light searing lest diners freak out over all that rose-colored fish flesh.

The saving grace of my Tuna Burger experience was my side of thickly cut waffle fries. Dipped in mayonnaise and ketchup, they were almost made up for this Fish Sandwich Fail.

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Joanna O'Leary