Fish Sandwich Fridays: Lucky Burger

In honor of Lent and in an attempt to revive my own (lapsed) Catholicism, I will be reviewing a fish sandwich (loosely defined) each Friday from a local Houston restaurant. Sorry, Mickey D's fans: no Filet-o-Fish. Feel free to send in your suggestions even if you're not a Fish Eater with a capital F.

The Fish Burger at Lucky Burger

Having spent some serious dough on an elaborate seafood meal earlier this week, I was in the mood for something cheap, simple, and a little greasy. So I went to Lucky Burger.

Although in the past I've relished the restaurant's juicy double cheeseburger and fried mushrooms, I had been wary of the "Unique Lucky's Burger" section of the menu. Lucky Burger, I reasoned, can't possibly make good burgers and fried rice and fish sandwiches.

But then I heard through the grapevine that Lucky's fish sandwich was actually pretty good, in that fast food sort of way.

Still harboring low expectations, I ordered one to-go around mid-afternoon. Not so much a patty as a filet, the fish "burger" was composed of whitefish (cod, I'm pretty sure) breaded and fried, lettuce, tomato, pickles and tartar sauce. The fresh, yeasty bun and surprisingly crisp and tasty breadcrumbs put it a step above your run-of-the-mill cheap fish sandwich, but the grease and gluey tartar sauce definitely reminded me that I hadn't purchased haute organic cuisine.

All in all, it was hardly transcendent but definitely fine. It probably would have been just a bit more satisfying if I had skipped the tartar sauce and requested extra tomatoes and a slice of cheese. And now I'm in the mood for a higher-class fish sandwich. Stay tuned.

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Joanna O'Leary