Flavors of the 5th: Davis Meat Co. BBQ

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The barbecue at Davis Meat Co. on Lockwood is worthy of your attention. The brisket is tender, juicy and tastes fabulous on a sandwich. And the housemade coarsely-ground pork and beef link is one of the best sausages made within the city limits. Unfortunately, the pork ribs come from oversize slabs, rather than the succulent little three and half and down slabs that yield the best rib meat. Overall, the barbecue is long-cooked and tender, but the smoke flavor is not quite as pronounced as we like it. Davis Meat Co. uses hickory wood in a stainless steel Old Smokey rig with a built-in gas burner.

The sides, which come from the exceptional steam table at Davis Meat Co., are far better than those found in typical Texas barbecue restaurants. Instead of the industrial potato salad, beans and slaw that are usually slopped alongside our smoked meat, Davis Meat Co. offers greens with smoked pork, candied yams, and half dozen or so others. The stand-out choice is the pinto beans, which are worked into creaminess with huge chunks of the aforementioned sausage floating around in them.

The cut-to-the-chase barbecue lunch order here has got to be a sliced beef sandwich with a side of beans. While you're there, get a slice of hog's head cheese for tomorrow's breakfast.

-Robb Walsh

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