Four's Better Than Three

We know this, but we don't know why. Otilia's (7710 Long Point, 713-681-7203) cuatro leches cake ($3.95) is out of this world, but if you ask the proprietors the difference between their cuatro leches cake and typical tres leches, they clam up, refusing to divulge the mystery ingredient. Here's what we do know about this sinful dessert: It starts with a one-inch-thick single layer of vanilla-flavored sponge cake that's so moist, when you press down on it gently with a fork, the liquid filling oozes out. The filling, a rich, sweet mixture of condensed milk, evaporated milk and whole milk, completely saturates the cake, which is topped with a thick, half-inch-tall layer of sweetened whipped cream. Of course, we can't help but think it's the secret ingredient that makes Otilia's cuatro leches so special. Why are you holding out on us, Otilia's?

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