Franchise This

If Fast Food Nation has a main street, it's 61st Street in Galveston. The busy thoroughfare is a visual roll call of Jack in the Arch McWendy Kings. Hungry beachgoers are left to decide which franchise they're least tired of -- unless they're lucky enough to spot the humble, jumbled corner cafe called the Cajun Greek Restaurant (2226 61st St., 409-744-7041). Don't be scared off by the unusual name. The classic gyro ($4.95) is authentic, with crispy-crusted lamb sliced straight from the spit, enveloped in warm pita and topped with tzatziki made that morning from yogurt and fresh cucumbers. The tomato slices and sweet white onion nestled in the wrap taste like they're from someone's backyard garden. The meaty, hand-cut fries served on the side are naturally sweet and still smoking. Our plates emptied, owner John Karageorgos returns with a sample of his dark, rich gumbo -- in case we're in a different non-fast-food mood the next time we're in town.
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Carol Rust