Fritter Away

Nothing says "Floribbean" cuisine more than rum and coconut. So when I discovered the coconut fritters ($4.95) at Floridita Seafood Grill (3401 Kirby Drive, 713-524-1900), I knew I'd be island-hopping in my mind before long. The coconut flakes are formed into golf-ball-size rounds with the consistency of a dense doughnut. Fried to a golden crisp and dusted with powdered sugar, the five balls arrive in, of all things, a brown paper lunch bag. Too bad the honey-rum dipping sauce doesn't contain the real spirit. Now where's that Hemingway I've been meaning to read?
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Paul Galvani