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Otilia's (7710 Long Point, 713-681-7203) is a media darling. In fact, the restaurant lists its newspaper accolades on the first page of its menu. Does that mean the proprietors of Otilia's think more highly of their press coverage than their mole sauce? Not a chance in a gringo honeymoon. I made numerous attempts to see what all the fuss was about, but either I thought of dinner too late (they close at 8 p.m. during the week) or I dropped by on a Monday when the restaurant is dark. Finally, I got lucky enough to taste the fresh salsas, a mole sauce worthy of getting into heaven and a damn fine sangria. There are probably as many ways to make sangria as there are ways to make salsa, but this recipe is simple and authentic. Either you follow the recipe to the letter, re-creating the drink as it was made at the bar, or you simply take Jerry Jeff Walker's advice and add whatever you happen to have lying around the kitchen.

Otilia's Sangria:
3 cups red wine (jug wine works perfectly)
3 ounces fresh lime juice
1/4 cup sugar
Club soda
Sliced oranges

Combine wine, lime juice and sugar in a 32-ounce carafe. Stir until sugar dissolves. Add club soda to almost the top, throw in the oranges and stir some more.

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