Fungus Amungus

The name is Armenian, but the food at Masraff's [1025 South Post Oak Lane, (713)355-1975] is what you would find if the United States and southern Europe shared a border. The wild mushroom ravioli ($13.50 at lunch as an entrée; $9.50 at dinner as an appetizer) isn't the most flamboyant item on the menu, but it should not be missed. Several types of fungus, among them morel and portobello, are stuffed inside the ravioli and then heaped on top. The handmade pasta is so thin it's almost translucent; it's also a friendly vehicle for the 'shrooms, allowing their natural flavors to emerge, along with those of the other ingredients, such as garlic, tarragon and parsley. The ravioli comes swimming in white truffle oil and a touch of Madeira wine. You'll never think of mushrooms the same way again.

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Carol Rust