Sweets

Garlic Zeppole and Foie Gras Ice Cream: Challenging the Idea of Traditional Desserts

We entered through the back door into the labyrinthine kitchen of Textile. It was our third time at Scott Tycer's restaurant (although the first in its kitchen) and we were glad to be back: The desserts were the best part of our first two visits, and we were eager to repeat the experience.

For such a small restaurant, the size of the kitchen is overwhelming until you remember that they share the space with Kraftsmen Bakery. The bakery, which is also owned by Tycer, works day and night to produce the bread that graces the tables of many of Houston's best restaurants. In one corner, hundreds of warm, fat, little loaves stood waiting to be whisked away as we walked past yards of stainless steel counters, enormous sacks of flour and a glowering picture of Marco Pierre White tacked to a cabinet, standing guard with an intensity that smolders even from a simple black-and-white photocopy.

We were in the kitchen for one of Plinio Sandalio's famed dessert tastings. Sandalio, the pastry chef at Textile, is a quiet, kind, unassuming young man with a fondness for Zooey Deschanel's quirky pop music and Eddie Murphy's "Party All The Time." Not at all the brash character you'd expect behind what is simply the most inventive and creative food being crafted in Houston right now. With his chipper girlfriend Erica serving as both sous and expediter last night, Sandalio took the four of us through a crash course that challenged all our ideas of what the dessert station could (and should) be.

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Katharine Shilcutt