Good golonka

The golonka ($16.90) at Polonia (1900 Blalock, 713-464-9900) is a tribute to just how much you can fit on a regular-size plate. A huge pork knuckle -- bone, skin and all -- is braised for most of the day in a mixture of beer, paprika, onion, carrots and spices, making the meat fall-off-the-bone tender. It's served with its sauce, along with hot horseradish and a generous portion of Polish sauerkraut laced with caraway seeds, a version decidedly sweeter than its German cousin.
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Paul Galvani