Green Eggs at Baby Barnaby's

January 2nd was a funny kind of day.

A Friday, the day after New Year's Day, sandwiched between a citywide attempt to recover from a hangover and a weekend in which another one would soon take its place, January 2nd was eerily quiet and sober.  My grandmother and I drove aimlessly in the gray morning fog, searching in vain for a really good breakfast place that was open at 10:00 that morning and striking out glumly at each destination.

As we wandered down Fairview, I heard my grandmother exclaim, "Oh, look at the pretty rainbow chimney on that place!  What's that?" A goldmine, that's what: Baby Barnaby's was open for business!

Although the wait seemed interminable, it was only 10 minutes before we were seated inside with steaming mugs of coffee in our hands.  As my small-town East Texas grandmother confusedly took in the sights of the fellow patrons, I ordered my favorite dish: green eggs with chicken-apple sausage and skillet potatoes.  For my grandmother, a solitary but heavenly waffle.

Not every Barnaby's location serves breakfast and Baby Barnaby's even has a slightly different breakfast menu than the River Oaks and Midtown locations.  In addition, not every location that serves breakfast serves it seven days a week.  My suggestion?  Stick to Baby Barnaby's for all your breakfast needs.

Baby Barnaby's green eggs are an inspired concoction of scrambled eggs mixed with spinach, artichoke hearts and melted cheese.  While not entirely green, they are both good for you and good for your tastebuds.  The slightly sweet, slightly nutmeggy chicken-apple sausage is a welcome counterbalance to the vegetal eggs and the skillet potatoes are unrivaled by any other breakfast place in town.

Other menu items are equally good: intensely fluffy waffles that taste like they've been made with the kind of yeasty batter that needs to be left out overnight to rise, excellent migas with spicy chorizo and a smoky salsa on the side, freshly-squeezed orange and grapefruit juices and dusky fair-trade coffee, delivered unquestioningly to your table in a large canister as soon as you sit down.

While the waitstaff fawned over my teeny-tiny grandmother (and vice versa), I tore into my green eggs with abandon and we both emerged on the other side far happier people than when we'd walked in only thirty minutes ago. Taken with the cheerful interior and equally cheerful service, a breakfast at Baby Barnaby's will make even the grayest day bright again.

--- Katharine Shilcutt

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Katharine Shilcutt