Veal sweetbreads.
Veal sweetbreads.

Happy Hour at Mockingbird Bistro

If there's anything thing I hate more than cooking, it's cooking for one. Maybe that's a bit of an exaggeration -- I don't hate cooking nearly as much as I used to -- but when I'm flying solo for dinner I'd rather go out than slave over a cup of Ramen. Finding myself alone and hungry on Thursday night, I headed over to Mockingbird Bistro to see what was happening on their "5 at 5 for $5" happy hour menu.

The Mockingbird happy hour menu changes periodically, although I noticed a few items were the same, or similar, as the last time I was there. I was feeling adventurous, and with encouragement from my waiter I went with the veal sweetbreads with grilled Portobello, crispy pancetta, and Romesco sauce.

On the plus side, this was a delicious appetizer: the crispy pancetta was a nice textural counterpoint to the soft, warm sweetbreads; the Romesco sauce was lively and acidic, rich and tangy. Considering that sweetbreads aren't my "thing," I was really happy with the taste profile -- I experienced none of that musty flavor I associate with the innards of things.

The flip side of that was that my excitement about being adventurous was a bit quashed by the lack of exotic flavors. While the pancetta was very crisp, I have to admit that it wasn't at all distinguishable from regular old bacon, and also lacking any hint of saltiness, which I think the dish could have used to highlight the sweetness of the Romesco. What of the Portobello? The mushroom was buried under the pancetta and the sauce, and it seemed a little like an afterthought. I could certainly have lived without it, and I don't think it added much to the overall dish in either flavor or texture.

That said, this was ultimately a lovely little bite of sweetbreads, and my fear of innards continues to diminish. I don't think that the $10.51 I paid for the dish and my glass of wine is too high a price to pay for that kind of horizon-expanding food experience.


Follow Eating Our Words on Facebook and on Twitter @EatingOurWords

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

Newsletters

All-access pass to the top stories, events and offers around town.

  • Top Stories
    Send:

Newsletters

All-access pass to top stories, events and offers around town.

Sign Up >

No Thanks!

Remind Me Later >