In anticipation of today’s James Beard Award finalist announcements — which are being broadcast for the first time ever from Houston — last night, the H Town Group, helmed by 2017 JBF Best Chef Southwest winner Hugo Ortega, hosted an all-star Friends of James Beard Benefit dinner at their coastal Mexican seafood restaurant, Caracol.
The event, which sold out within hours, featured a who’s who of James Beard Foundation (JBF) celebrity chefs. Canapes were prepared by former and current JBF semifinalists Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel Gardner of The Pass & Provisions, Kaiser Lashkari of Himalaya, Anita Jaisinghani of Pondicheri, and Irma Galvan of Irma’s Original.
Mains were presided over by Houston’s four past JBF Best Chef Award winners: Robert Del Grande, Hugo Ortega, Justin Yu, and Chris Shepherd. Ruben Ortega created the evening’s desserts, while H Town Group’s beverage director, Sean Beck, handled wine pairings, as well as custom-crafted cocktails with JBF nominee Bobby Heugel of Anvil Bar & Refuge.
In other words, it was one big celebratory shindig for a good cause. And every part of it was marked by excellence.
“This evening is about celebrating the very best of Houston culinary talent,” said Clare Reichenbach, CEO of the James Beard Foundation, who will co-host the finalist announcements from Hugo’s Restaurant. But last night, she took the time to acknowledge Houston’s fantastic food scene: “Houston is home to almost 100 James Beard Award semifinalists, nominees and winners,” she said. “11 of whom are here this evening kindly giving up their evening to create this wonderful repast for us all.”
The wonderful repast started with canapes on the Caracol patio, accompanied by custom crafted cocktails featuring El Tesoro Tequila, Maker’s Mark Bourbon by Sean Beck, and Haku Vodka and Roku Gin by Bobby Heugel. Canapes included samosas by Kaiser Lashkari, desi oyster dogs by Anita Jaisinghani, smoked brisket fritters by Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan, and shredded chicken mole mini-enchiladas by Irma Galvan. Beck’s pink “Evolucion” margarita was a knockout.
H-Town Group’s service was impeccable throughout, providing synchronized service for all courses. JBF winner Chris Shepherd’s first course of Crispy Rice salad herbs, tomato, cucumber and serrano vinaigrette was beautifully paired with a 2017 Hogl “Bruck” Dry Riesling Federspiele from Wachau, Austria.
JBF Winner Robert Del Grande followed with a Mexican-inspired second course of sea scallop topped with huitlacoche, in hoja santa broth, featuring what just might have been the standout pairing of the night — a 2017 Henri Lurton “Le Chenin” white from Mexico’s Valle de Guadalupe.
JBF Winner Hugo Ortega’s dish, a Mixiote de Pescado (fish wrapped win agave leaf with mole amarillo and roasted vegetables) arrived in beautifully wrapped parchment packages tied with ribbon and adorned with tiny bird-shaped Mexican handicrafts. The pairing, a gorgeous 2015 Bodegas Roda “Sela” from Rioja, Spain, was also impeccable.
JBF Winner Justin Yu’s team prepared the final savory course, a roasted pastured Tejas Heritage Farms duck with local mushrooms and preserved vegetables. The course was paired with not just one, but two wines — a 2014 Domaine Les Alexandrins Crozes-Hermitage from France’s Northern Rhone, and a sumptuous 2015 Ogier “Reine-Jeanne” Chateauneuf-du-Pape from Southern Rhone, which allowed for cool side-by-side tasting of two different seemingly close but totally different terroirs.
To close out the night, pastry chef Ruben Ortega pulled out all the stops and created hundreds of full-sized chocolate cacao shells filled with a medley of chocolate, from coffee-rosita de cacao cremeux, to chocolate passion fruit cloud, mole and hazelnut river rocks, and Oaxacan chocolate soil. A signature dessert at Xochi since the restaurant opened, it elicited wows from across the room, as guests delightedly opened the cacao shell to uncover the confections beneath. The dessert was also notably paired with another cocktail, made with Legent Kentucky Bourbon, a brand new bourbon debuting for the first time in Texas last night.
“We’re never going to have another night like this,” remarked restaurateur and host Tracy Vaught. Indeed, as a showcase of Houston’s culinary excellence and diversity, from the chef creations to the drinks, to the service and ambiance and the charitable spirit of the event, it was a night to remember.
Keep the Houston Press Free... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Houston with no paywalls.