Tucked away between the spiffy lofts and towering town homes of Midtown, Lankford Grocery and Market (88 Dennis, 713-522-9555) is a throwback. The 1940s icehouse comes complete with wood-paneled walls, lumpy booths, plastic tablecloths, down-home service and a dandy retro burger ($3.50). Lankford handles this all-American classic with unwavering attention to detail, starting with choice ground beef and a deft griddling technique that leaves the burgers charred-black but still moist. Expect a right-on ratio of crisp iceberg lettuce, pungent onions and tomato slivers, slapped between sweet toasted buns (just like Mom used to make). There's no place like home -- except maybe this place. They don't take credit cards, so bring cash or checks. Yep, it's that old-fashioned.
Keep the Houston Press Free... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Houston with no paywalls.