Homemade Barbecue Sausage at Davis Meat Market

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Beef tips or one of the other soul food plates are usually my choice at Davis Meat Market in the Fifth Ward. The barbecue is smoked on an Old Hickory stainless steel pit, so it's not as smokey as it could be. But Mr. Davis's spicy beef and pork links are among the best housemade sausages in Houston.

Order a sausage plate, or ask for a two-meat plate with links and brisket. The buttery, tender beef brisket isn't world-class, but it is quite passable. Skip the pork ribs, which come from a tough five-pound rack rather than the tiny three-and-a-half-pound size that yields the tenderest ribs.

When it comes to sides, Davis Meat Market beats any barbecue joint in the city. The beans are heavenly -- long-cooked, creamy and studded with sausage. You can't miss with the collard greens, cabbage, yams or black-eyed peas either. While, you're there, get a summer sausage, some headcheese or some cracklins to eat later.

Davis Meat Market at 2204 Lockwood is open from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. six days a week and from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Sundays. You have to ring the buzzer, and he will come open the door and let you in.

Bring cash. Mr. Davis doesn't take credit cards.

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