Hot Little Crabs

The popcorn crabs ($6.50) at Sushi Raku (3201 Louisiana, 713-526-8885) are so small you might almost feel guilty about eating them. Almost. An order comes with eight to ten quarter-size crabs covered in a light tempura batter and then flash-fried. They're served with lime and a seven-spice powder known as shichimi that's made with white and black sesame seeds, red pepper and chile powder, among other spices. Just like with soft-shelled crabs, you eat each crab whole, and the art is in picking it up with chopsticks and gently dipping it into the shichimi without getting too much spice, or the heat will overpower the flavor of the crab.
KEEP THE HOUSTON PRESS FREE... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Paul Galvani