Restaurant Reviews

Hot Plate

I've often wondered whether Cajuns engineer culinary oddities just to see if Texans will eat them, and I looked seriously askance at the filet mignon-on-a-stick, $10.95, at Bourbon St. Bistreaux [5555 Morningside, (713)522-9133]. Surprise: This steak snack is actually quite tasty. Admirable chunks of beef tenderloin are cooked to order, retro wrapped in apple-smoked bacon, bamboo skewered and drenched in the mustardy house barbecue sauce. Two disheveled piles of buttery, crumbly corn souffle round out the plate and help stoke the engines of young urbanites bent on an evening of Village barhopping.

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