Restaurant Reviews

Hot Plate

Mango Mango Chicken caught my eye on the otherwise regulation-Chinese menu at Tien Fu (2390 West Alabama, 526-3868). But I hesitated -- what if it's too sweet? Not. Tender white-meat chicken strips alternate with firm curves of just-ripe mango in Chef Joe Wong's summery stir-fry. The saving grace is the bracing tang of orange zest in the delicate sauce -- "more flavor than orange juice," Wong points out; the crowning glory is a generous sprinkling of oven-roasted walnut halves glazed with honey. (Bonus point: for accompaniment, you can choose a very lightly fried rice instead of the de rigueur steamed.) And to think, I nearly missed it....

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