Restaurant Reviews

Hot Plate

Do you know what's wrong with Houston? We don't sweat enough. That's why I'm so devoted to the huevos rancheros ($4.95) at Goode Company Hamburgers and Taqueria (4902 Kirby, 520-9153). They open the pores. Which is more than cleansing: It's almost a purification ritual. If it weren't for those huevos, I'd probably have to join the men's movement -- is there such a thing anymore? -- and sweat in a tepee with lots of naked strangers. No, I prefer Goode Company. If you sit outdoors when the sun is directly overhead, the results are just as good. Yes, you will look like a boiled prawn, and you'll smell like a fox, but the huevos make it worthwhile: two eggs "over EZ," says the menu, on a corn tortilla, and covered with salsa and cheese. There's rice and beans as well, and your choice of bacon, pork sausage, ham or chorizo. I get the chorizo. It really makes those sweat glands work.

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Eric Lawlor