Hot Plate

Bibas Greek Pizza [5526 Memorial Drive, (713)861-2266] had the right idea in naming its Aphrodite pizza after the Greek goddess of love. Falling for this pie is all too easy. Its power over mere mortals lies in its assembly: It starts, of course, with twice-risen dough, which is especially thick and pleasing in the small, six-inch version. Next are the toppings -- chicken breast slices and tomatoes -- which aren't on the top at all; they rest beneath creamy layers of feta and mozzarella. A marinara sauce blankets the fluffy crust, and its pleasing sweetness balances out the salty cheeses. One bite of this divine combination, and you'll swear you're atop Mount Olympus.

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Brenda Tavakoli