Restaurant Reviews

Hot Plate

Do quail quail? They do when I'm around, for the very good reason that I can't get enough of them. The mesquite-grilled quail at Rancho Tejas are always a treat, but I've recently discovered another favorite: the taquito de codorniz -- "roasted, bacon-wrapped boneless quail breast, stuffed with mushrooms and chiles" available at Americas (1800 Post Oak Boulevard, 961-1492) and costing $8. The quail is served on a flour tortilla -- hence taquito -- and makes for some mighty fine eatin'. I'm wild about these things, but do bear in mind that my enthusiasms are short-lived and that this time next week, I may well be singing the praises of sheep's eyes.

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Eric Lawlor