Restaurant Reviews

Hot Plate

As the T-shirt exhorts, I've been thanking my lucky stars since 1977 -- not just for the barbecue served by Goode Co. (5109 Kirby, 522-2530; 8911 Katy Frwy., 464-1901), but also for Jim Goode's Famous Brazos Bottom Pecan Pie. This impeccable pie boasts a flaky crust, a gooey, sweet-but-not-too-sweet light Karo filling fragrant with vanilla, and a thick topping of perfect pecan halves. Halves only: no pecan quarters, slivers or bits need apply. By the slice, it's $2.25, or for $12.50 you can carry out a whole pie. Holiday note: Though pies are available at all Goode locations (including Goode Co. Seafood, 2621 Westpark, 523-7154; and Goode Co. Hamburgers, 4902 Kirby, 520-9153), the Kirby and Katy Freeway barbecue stores will feature pie booths in the parking lots on the Tuesday and Wednesday before Thanksgiving (9 a.m.-6 p.m.). Bray Vincent, general manager of the Kirby barbecue restaurant, advises pie fans to come early: Last year they prematurely sold all 1,300 pies, and "it got ugly

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