Restaurant Reviews

Hot Plate

Drive-thru dee-light: Ah, Houston, foodie heaven, where great eats are served everywhere, even in your car. Best case in point: the grilled swordfish sandwich ($5.75) at the drive-thru window of Beck's Prime, as good as its burgers, at notably lower calorie count. A firm-textured, quarter-pound swordfish fillet, lightly grilled over mesquite and served on a toasted, sesame-seeded egg bun, is decked out with green ribbons of lettuce, juicy red tomato slices and creamy house-made tartar sauce -- or reduce fat further by requesting Dijon mustard instead. And if you're that virtuous, you deserve one of this town's best milk shakes: either the strawberries and cream or the kick-ass, fresh-brewed Jamoca malted ($2.85). You might break even on the fat grams. [Beck's Prime, 2902 Kirby, (713)524-7085, and six other Houston locations.]


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