Hot Plate

The proof is in the pastry: I can't decide which I love more, the top crust or the bottom crust of the country-style peach cobbler at Mama's Oven [9295 South Main, (713)661-3656]. The thick, soft bottom crust is swimming in ruddy brown cinnamon-sugar syrup; the top crust is even thicker, made of a million flaky pastry layers golden-brown from the oven. Between the two, the curving slices of sweet yellow peach in the middle are almost irrelevant. This cobbler ($1.25) is so self-assured it dares to be seen in public without a scoop of vanilla ice cream on top.

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