But at Dodo's Chicken (9431 Richmond, [713]789-3636), a Colombian fast-food joint way out west between Gessner and Fondren, the arepas seize center stage. Served hot out of the skillet, their thick white crusts crunch just a little as you bite into them, giving way to the soft, molten center. The taste is elemental and pure: cornmeal, oil, the merest hint of salt. And they're cheap: $1.35 gets you six, each about the size of an iMac's mouse, or you can order them as part of Dodo's remarkable lunch special, $4.55 for a quarter of a roasted chicken and two side dishes.