While lost somewhere on Crosstimbers, I pulled into The Hungry Farmer Bar-B-Q (40 East Crosstimbers, 713-697-4874). It just looked like my kinda place, the kinda joint that has been there for a hundred years and has chicken-fried-steak sandwiches. I was right about the CFS sandwiches, but I think Hungry Farmer has been there for at least a couple hundred years.
I crossed the river of rain and traffic and made it to the entrance, only to be panhandled by some guy. But he didn't want money, he wanted barbecue! I ordered a CFS platter, a pound of pork ribs, chopped brisket baked potatoes and a chopped beef sandwich. I gave the sandwich to the panhandler and found a booth that was so old, the vinyl was torn. The Formica table was worn where a million people before me had rested their elbows and shoveled Q into their mouths.
The potato was enormous and fully loaded with at least a pound of chopped brisket, shredded cheddar and onions. The Hungry Farmer must be really hungry if he eats like this. The brisket was smoky and tender, and the barbecue sauce on top of everything was spicy and flavorful but not too sweet.
The CFS was pre-fab. We think this is the same CFS patty that Bibas serves. The pork ribs were tender and juicy, with a mild rub that brought out the flavor. Dipping the pork ribs into the barbecue sauce made them better. They didn't taste smoky but were still pork-alicious.
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Country pop blared from the speakers nestled in between the taxidermy and the rusty farm tools while we ate hamburger pickles, white bread and thinly sliced onions that were available at the condiment buffet. If you wanted to, you could make a salad out of pickles, onions and ketchup for free.