"Chicken-fried steak is considered a Southern staple," according to the Tulsa World. Food historians who argue that the CFS is a Southern invention point to the fried-chicken connection and the fact that recipes for steaks dipped in batter can be found in Southern cookbooks going back to the early 1800s.
Aficionados of this style wax poetic about the crunchy crust. It should look just like the coating on a piece of Southern fried chicken. Here's some of the best examples across the state.
AllGood Café
2934 Main St.
Dallas
214-742-5362
Looking at the concert posters and other memorabilia on the walls, you'd swear you were in Austin. The CFS is a thin piece of top-quality tenderloin covered with a sheer, flaky crust. You can cut it with a fork. The mashed potatoes and other sides are artfully prepared. It's upscale restaurant food slumming in a Deep Ellum diner.
Babe's Chicken Dinner House
104 North Oak
Roanoke
817-491-2900
There are only two things on Babe's menu — some of the best fried chicken in the state and a terrific chicken-fried steak. And no matter which one you pick, the crust looks exactly the same. There are several D-FW locations, but the original is located in an old warehouse in the small town of Roanoke, half an hour north of Fort Worth. "Babe" is the owner's nickname.
Buffalo Grille
3116 Bissonnet St.
Houston
713-661-3663
A Western-themed restaurant in the wilds of West U — the interior features a mounted buffalo head. The tenderized steak in the CFS is covered in a wavy crust fried golden blond with a perfectly crispy texture. The cream gravy is average, but the mashed potatoes have that perfect balance of creaminess and lumpiness you get when you whip them fresh.
Goodson's Cafe
27931 Tomball Pkwy.
Tomball
281-351-1749
The inside of this enormous super-diner is dark and cool. The menu advertises the "Best CFS in Texas." If you like them when they look like chicken, you'll love this one. The crust on the steak is so thick and crunchy, big flakes of it fall off when you cut it. Tasty brownish gravy is served on the side. The large order overlaps the plate in all directions.
Humble City Café
200 E. Main
Humble
281-319-0200
A historic high-ceilinged stone building in downtown Humble brought back to life as a small-town cafe. The CFS is a tenderized steak beautifully battered and fried, but a tad gristly. Hand-cut French fries and country-style green beans are the top sides.
Lankford Grocery and Market
88 Dennis St.
Houston
713-522-9555
A funky country cafe in an inner-city neighborhood, Lankford Grocery is a Houston civic treasure. The CFS is served as a Thursday lunch special only. The patties of tenderized eye-of-round are small but thick and come to the table in a well-seasoned and thickly battered crust. A baked potato garnished with sour cream, cheddar and green onions is served on the side.
Barbecue Inn
116 W. Crosstimbers St.
Houston
713-695-8112
"Barbecue Inn has one of the best chicken-fried steaks I have ever eaten," says John T. Edge, the head of the Southern Foodways Alliance. The meat is extremely tender, and the crust is exceptional — just what you'd expect at a place famous for its fried chicken. The bright-white cream gravy is a little sweet; it tastes like it was made with evaporated milk. Skip the greasy fries and load up a baked potato with sour cream, cheddar, chives and bacon bits from the old-fashioned rotating stainless-steel carousel.
Ozona Grill & Bar
4615 Greenville Ave.
Dallas
214-265-9105 and
520 Harvey Rd.
College Station
979-694-4618
The patio at the Ozona location on Greenville is one of Dallas's most charming happy hour spots, when the weather cooperates. The CFS is huge and pocked with deep chicken-fried craters. Unfortunately, the crust sometimes slips off the meat completely. The creamy garlic mashed potatoes make up for other defects.
Ranchman's Café
(The Ponder Steakhouse)
110 W. Bailey
Ponder
940-479-2221
Opened in 1948, this legendary Texas steak house is from the old school. The walls are covered with signed photographs of NASCAR stars. They tenderize their own round steak on the premises and dip it in egg batter for an extra-crunchy crust. The large is only slightly smaller than a manhole cover. This stellar CFS comes on a sizzling metal platter with crispy hand-cut French fries on the side.
R.O.'s Outpost
W. Hwy 71 at Hazy Hills Dr.
Spicewood
512-264-1169
At this eccentric Hill Country cafe, you have your choice of a claustrophobic dining room or an expansive porch that lacks heat or air-conditioning. The CFS comes with a gorgeous crispy crust, but the meat could use a little more tenderizing. Garnishes include pickles, onions and a canned peach. The gravy is great, the sides average.
