Touted by Houstonia's Gastronaut blog as one "alternative barbeque fix" for rodeo season, the new "Outlaw" burger at JerryBuilt Homegrown Burgers may not satisfy the most fastidious connoisseurs of grilled meats. But extreme food snobs are jackasses and who wants to eat barbecue with them, anyway?

Burger enthusiasts as well as anyone who appreciates creative combinations of spice and textures have gotta try JerryBuilt's Outlaw burger at least once if not twice while it's on offer as a seasonal special. And if you find yourself craving it a third time, God help you: You're in love with a rebel.

A thick beef patty, a generous helping of tender sweetish pulled pork, ghost pepper cheese, barbecue sauce and heavily battered bacon are stacked in between two halves of a buttery egg bun as to form a veritable tower of heated (both in spice and temperature) proteins that alternately tickle your belly and terrorize your tongue (in a good way). It's messy, uncivilized and delicious.

In other words, The Outlaw, as a emotionally complicated burger that flouts "decency" and therefore puts it outside the protection of society, is aptly titled. If you want a burger that follows the rules, however, go for the tamer albeit very good "Jerry's Burger" with grilled onions, Ernie's sauce and American cheese.

One final note: If you're inclined to eat quickly, check yourself before you wreck yourself with The Outlaw. This burger is not to be gobbled. The Outlaw, while far from a fussy confection, is far too internally complex to be consumed so indelicately.