Landing the Big One

Even those who have eaten shrimp on the east coast of the Yucatan might be surprised by the mega-size crustaceans at the cavernous, colorful Lucinda's [2415 Dunstan, (713)394-7280]. At first glance, the camarones al cilantro ($17.95) look too pretty to eat: Dark bronzed shrimp, along with deep green strands of cilantro, chunks of browned garlic and hand-cut bits of bacon, circle a mound of white rice. But after the first heavenly bite, you'll forget all about aesthetics. The ingredients have been gently sautéed in sherry with a dash of salt and paprika, a taste combination that's hard to forget. It's easy to see why this relatively new kid on the restaurant block is usually packed at lunch and dinner.

KEEP THE HOUSTON PRESS FREE... Since we started the Houston Press, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Houston, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Carol Rust