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Learning to Share

When you order the molcajete especial ($10.95) at Taqueria De Jalisco (408 Old Galveston Rd., 713-378-0059), you get two serving dishes, one a plate with guacamole, Spanish rice and refried beans, the other a molcajete — the traditional pestle used to grind spices in the Mexican kitchen — holding the main dish. Usually a molcajete is made of volcanic rock, but here it's made of hard plastic. Inside are slices of well-seasoned beef and chicken fajitas, grilled shrimp and slices of grilled onions and nopalitos (cactus leaves), which look a lot like bell peppers but are softer in texture. Watching the women in the corner hand-make your tortillas is all part of the show. Whether or not you choose to share will depend on how hungry you are.

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Paul Galvani