Load It Up

Houston's Francophiles have long known the French Riviera Bakery (3032 Chimney Rock, 713-783-3264) as a place to find authentic breads, croissants and pastries. Its owner, however, isn't from France. If you encounter an Asian from Madagascar who speaks with a French accent, then you've found the right place. And if he asks if you want him to "load it up," just nod approvingly. The "it" refers to the cognac pâté sandwich ($6.25) -- a thick slice of dense pork pâté with just a hint of cognac, a lot of garlic and a rim of jelly around its top edge. Pickle, tomato slices and shredded lettuce complete the sandwich, which is served on two six-inch crispy pieces of baguette. It's enough to satisfy the hungriest Frenchman.

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Paul Galvani