Restaurant Reviews

First Look: Los Tios Buffalo Speedway

Everyone loves two salsas.
Everyone loves two salsas. Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero
On a sweltering Friday afternoon, my husband, Classic Rock Bob, and I decided to check out the current Impressionist exhibit at the Museum of Fine Arts Houston. After a perspiring walk back to our car, we felt that a couple of frozen margaritas were just the thing to cool us down. The new Los Tios off Buffalo Speedway was just an 11-minute drive, so that's where we headed.
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The exterior reflects a little of Mexico.
Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero
Located in the newly refreshed Plaza in the Park shopping center just off the freeway, the new restaurant is part of Adair Concepts, a family-owned hospitality group in Houston. Los Tios  has been around since 1970 but Adair Concepts acquired the brand in 2000. There are five other locations across the city. The shopping center also houses another of the group's concepts, Adair Kitchen.
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Los Tios brings a bit of the outside in, with air conditioning.
Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero
The exterior of Los Tios is white and bright and the stucco-tiled roof adds to the feel of a Mexican plaza. There's a covered front seating area meant for waiting guests but no one was waiting outside that day in the triple-digit heat. We swept into the air conditioning of the restaurant and were greeted immediately, and in unison, by three smiling young women wearing pretty embroidered Mexican blouses. We were quickly seated in a booth and chips and salsa were on our table before we even opened our menus.

We each ordered a lunchie margarita, which seemed a good deal at $5.95. Then, we sat back and admired the lovely dining room with its live tree standing in the center, surrounded by a number of booths and traditional Mexican-style chairs. The tables were bedecked with floral oil cloths, a feature that also lines the walls of the separate party room, which was being used that day as part of the overspill of lunch guests. There was pretty pottery decorating the walls, saltillo tile floors and plants dotted throughout the brightly-lit space.
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Lunchie margaritas are not as great a deal as the lunch plates.
Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero
Our lunchie margaritas soon arrived and we tried to hide our dismay at the size of them. I would guess that these glasses were four ounces. While diners may appreciate a smaller cocktail at lunchtime, I would say a fairer price for these would be more along the lines of $3.95. They were gone in minutes.

These were the frozen version of the house margarita. Los Tios claims to have brought the first frozen margaritas to Houston decades ago. I liked the fact that the ritas were made with fresh lime rather than a syrupy sweet and sour mix. However, even I, who loves the lip-puckering twang of lime, could have used a little triple sec to balance it out.
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Lunch specials are a great deal at Los Tios.
Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero
We each ordered a lunch special ($10.95).  From 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Monday through Friday, the lunch specials offer a choice of two items from a list of Mexican favorites plus beans and rice. I was thrilled that they offered a choice of beans. I opted for the charros while Classic Rock Bob chose the refried black beans.

After our friendly server left to put in our order, we turned our attention to the thin, crispy chips and two salsas. The creamy avocado was good but it wasn't terribly flavorful. It would probably be a hit with children and folks who don't like spicy sauces. The red sauce was also mild but it was so fresh and tasty that I could forgive the lack of heat. It was more like a Mexican gazpacho and I could have eaten it as a soup. Even though I love a spicy cooked salsa, this was a refreshing and healthy dip for a Houston heat wave afternoon.
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We tried the famous puffy queso for the first time.
Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero
Once our lunch plates arrived, we both decided to have another cocktail, albeit on the pricier side. I chose the frozen Grand Gold while CRB ordered the Smokey Rita on the rocks. Then, CRB dug into his cheese enchilada which was pretty standard but had the kind of chili sauce that I prefer. I cracked open my puffy queso, which is an item that Los Tios lays claim to having created. The queso itself  was mostly cheese sauce with very few peppers, if any. It was thicker than some of the quesos I have had lately, which I appreciated. The fried, puffed tortilla itself was a tiny bit greasy but not enough to interfere with the crispy crunch of the shell. For a lunch item, it was a nice bonus but I would probably just order queso as an appetizer next time.
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The restaurant's interior is charming.
Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero
My choices included a steak fajita taco while my companion ordered the chicken version. The steak strips were beautifully tender and I could tell they had been marinated, though I am not sure in what. There was good flavor from the beef itself but it had not been seasoned much and there weren't any accompaniments to add to it, not even a garnish of pico de gallo. I made do with the fresh red table salsa and that worked fine. I do wish, however, that Los Tios would add a bit of oomph to the seasoning of some of its items.

When CRB bit into his taco, he realized he had received a beef one as well. The server quickly brought out a chicken fajita replacement, leaving us with an extra steak taco to take home. The fajita chicken in his taco was even better than the steak in mine. I usually choose beef over chicken but this chicken was super juicy and better seasoned . While I would recommend the steak taco at Los Tios, I would give a hearty "don't miss" to the chicken fajita version. On top of a salad, that chicken would be sublime.
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These charro beans are some of the best in Houston.
Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero
The sides were impressive as well. I don't care for black beans but CRB was happy with his. The rice was fluffy and well-seasoned. The best part for me was the charro beans. Though I had to spoon around a couple of giant chunks of onion and bell pepper, the broth in this little cup was full of flavor. The pinto beans were perfectly cooked but it was the slightly smoky, bacon-y broth that really made my taste buds sing. I would put these charros in my top three in Houston. 
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Los Tios offers a number of tequila cocktails.
Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero
Our second round of cocktails was a success even if the size was still an issue. My frozen Grand Gold regular ($12) was served in a pretty blue, etched coupe. This margarita had the right balance of sweet and sour. The large is $16 and the menu says it is served in a schooner but I have no idea what that means.

CRB's Smokey Rita with Casamigos mezcal, Casamigos blanco tequila, lime and orange bitters was smooth and smoky with maybe a tad too much ice. For $14, it was a couple bucks a sip.
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We never turn down a free rita.
Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero
While we were finishing our food, a manager was walking around with a couple of frozen margaritas. She asked if we would like one because there were some extras. We were happy to take one off her hands. So, that was a nice, frosty bonus. She wandered through the dining room talking to guests and when she wasn't, she stood eagle-eyed, watching over everything.

Our server told us that she also worked at the nearby Adair Kitchen and she had been with Adair Concepts for years. That says something about the business owners. The service at Los Tios was pitch perfect and the staff actually seemed happy to be there. Even the young hostesses were helping out rather than standing cluelessly at the front door.

That's what really struck us about Los Tios. Everything seemed to say "We care," from the lovely decor to the fresh ingredients to the smiling service.
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The bar at Los Tios tempts guests to play hooky.
Photo by Lorretta Ruggiero
Even though I might whinge a bit about cocktail prices, I realize the days of finding $3.99 margaritas are long gone. However, Los Tios does have a weekday happy hour from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m. with $5 house margaritas and $6 Golds. CRB and I just might have to take advantage of that deal soon because the Equipale barstools in the adorable lounge area look extra comfy.

Yes, I had to look up Equipale.

Los Tios West U
5192 Buffalo Speedway
713-432-7131
lostiosrestaurant.com
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Lorretta Ruggiero is a Houston Press freelance writer based in Cypress, Texas. She loves entertaining her family and friends with her food and sparkling wit. She is married to Classic Rock Bob and they have two exceptionally smart-aleck children.