Make Mine Migas

Rustika Café & Bakery (3237 Southwest Freeway, 713-665-6226) is a fancy-pants Mexican bakery gone uptown, set in a pricey strip center. But don't let the eye candy -- stunning pastries, empanadas, mile-high cakes and twinkling fruit turnovers -- distract you from a delightful, home-style, hot breakfast. The best thing cooking in this kitchen is the migas mexicana ($8.50), deftly prepared by an experienced Mexican cook who knows how to keep the tortilla strips crispy, the seasoning right, and the cheddar cheese light. This casserole-style mound of fluffy scrambled eggs brightened with tomatoes, peppers and sweet onions is so massive, it should be shared with an amigo. And Rustika's wickedly addictive homemade salsa, thick with fresh puréed jalapeños, will cure any ailment. On the way out, grab some pretty pan dulce from the pastry case to tide you over until lunchtime. -- Robin Barr Sussman

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